Showing posts with label Light. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Light. Show all posts

Lighting for Portrait Photography (Part 1): Behavior of Light

  • Wednesday, October 20, 2010
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  • Light is the raw material of a photographer. Much as the painter works with paint and the sculptor works with stone, the photographer works with light. This analogy is not precise however, because as the painter and sculptor work with actual material substances, the photographer works with a form of energy. Understanding the behavior of this form of energy that we call light, is foundational to your success as a portrait photographer. A painter may not need to know the chemical and physical properties of each component of her paints, but she must completely understand how to blend the different colors, and how the paints behave as she applies them to the canvas. Just as a painter or sculptor must gain masterful insight into the behavior of the raw materials of their arts, so must the portrait photographer gain a keen understanding of the behavior of light.

    The first prerequisite for photography is light being emitted from a source. Just think about it, without light, photography is impossible. Light may be emitted from a natural source, such as the sun, or from an artificial source, such as strobes or constant light sources. In 1931, the strobe was developed for use in still photography by Harold Edgerton [http://www.edgerton.org/biography.html], an electrical engineer from MIT. Today, the strobe is by far the most used light source in the portrait studio. Advantages of strobe lighting for portrait studio photography include: reasonably precise control of light intensity and light color temperature, low heat generation compared to a constant light source, and low power consumption for the amount of light output.

    The most important property of light to the portrait photographer is the light's intensity or brightness. There are several ways of controlling the intensity of light striking the subject. In the studio, the power supply of modern strobes may be adjusted. The strobes may be positioned farther away from the subject. Outdoors, you may take advantage of cloud cover or the overhang of a tree or building, or even the time of day, to control the intensity of the incident light on the subject. These methods are effective for controlling the average (overall) light intensity of the composition. Many devices have been developed to control the relative intensities of light (specular highlights) of specific areas within a composition. Devices such as scrims, gobos, snoots, grid spots, and barn doors, are commonly used to partially block, direct, or otherwise control the relative light intensities within a composition.

    Another property of light of great importance to the portrait photographer is the light's color temperature. Pure white light is the result of an equally balanced mixture of the three primary colors: red, green, and blue. In different lighting conditions (e.g. cloudy versus full sun), the proportions of the color mixture may vary. Normally, the human brain automatically compensates for this, and you do not notice the difference as you leave one lighting condition and enter another. Film can not make this same automatic compensation. Therefore, differences in color temperature must be manually adjusted for by the photographer. Color temperature of various light conditions is commonly stated in degrees Kelvin. There are three standard color temperature rated films commonly used by photographers. "Daylight" film is designed to be exposed by 5500K light, and "indoor" film is designed to be exposed by 3400K light, or 3200K light for professional "indoor" film. For a greater degree of control over the white balance when using film, color correction filters are used. Most if not all digital SLR cameras have a white balance adjustment to electronically compensate for changing color temperatures encountered in various light conditions. In digital photography, when shooting in RAW format, the color temperature can easily be corrected in Photoshop.

    A third property of light that is very important to the portrait photographer is contrast. A light source has high contrast if its rays all strike the subject at approximately the same angle. A light source that is diffuse has low contrast, because its rays strike the subject from many different angles. High contrast light sources produce shadows with a hard edge, while low contrast light sources produce shadows with a soft edge. This is because with a high contrast light source, where the rays all approach the subject from approximately the same angle, no light enters the edge of the shadow and the shadow's edge remains distinct. A light source's relative contrast is generally determined by the size of the light source and its distance from the subject. The sun on a clear day is relatively small in our sky, and therefore it is a high contrast light source producing hard edged shadows. On a cloudy day, the light from the same sun is spread out and diffuse. Effectively the entire sky becomes a low contrast light source, producing very soft edged shadows. In the studio, we have many light modifiers available to us, to control the effective size of the light source and thereby control the level of contrast. For any given size of a light source, as it is positioned farther and farther away from the subject we see that it effectively becomes smaller and smaller, yielding higher and higher levels of contrast, albeit lower and lower intensity.

    Light acts on any subject it may strike. This much may be obvious. But every subject also acts on any light that strikes it. A subject may act on light in three distinct ways: refraction, absorption, and reflection. Refraction is the bending of light waves as they pass through a transparent material such as glass. In fact, the refractive property of glass is what is manipulated within the photographic lens, to focus an image onto the film (or digital image sensor). Absorption is the process whereby certain materials convert light energy into some other form of energy (usually heat). The absorptive property of a black painted foam core board may be used by the photographer to selectively "subtract" light, so that it does not bounce around the studio in an undesirable way.

    Of the three ways a subject may act on the light striking it, reflection is the most important to the photographer. Reflection is an abrupt change in the direction of propagation of light waves that strikes the surface of the subject. In direct reflection, the light rays bounce from a smooth surface at the same angle at which they hit it. The intensity of the direct reflection mirrors the intensity of the light source. Glare, such as observed on the surface of a body of water, is a polarized direct reflection. Unlike direct reflection however, glare reflection always has a lower intensity than the light source producing it. Glare reflection may be controlled or eliminated by using a polarizing filter. Diffuse reflections occur when light from a source is reflected equally in all directions by the surface it strikes. In theory, diffuse reflections are the same intensity no matter what angle they are viewed from. The intensity of a diffuse reflection increases as the light source is moved closer to the subject. The Inverse Square Law says that the intensity of the diffuse reflected light is inversely proportional to the square of the distance between the light source and the subject. This implies, a light source at any given distance from the subject will light the subject with an intensity that is four times greater than the same light source moved to twice the distance from the subject.

    An understanding of the behavior of light is a prerequisite to understanding how to control the light. We see that light can act on any subject it strikes. Intensity or brightness, color temperature, and contrast are the three properties that are of most concern to the portrait photographer. Any subject also acts on light that strikes it, either through refraction, reflection, absorption, or some combination of the three. In portrait photography, light is controlled to achieve optimum overall exposure of a composition, to develop of specular highlights, to reveal and enhance textures, forms and color saturation, and to build a three dimensional perspective. In Part 2 of this article, the fundamentals of controlling the overall exposure of a composition using the camera are discussed. Until then, good day and happy clicking.

    Steve Barnes is a professional portrait photographer, free lance writer, and co-owner of Hayley Barnes Photography, in League City, Texas. Please visit his website at: Hayley Barnes Photography. Elegant portrait photographer. Children, Families, High School Seniors, and QuinceaƱeras. "Custom Designed, Uniquely You" [http://www.hayleybarnesphoto.com]










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    Natural Light Children's Portrait Photography Business - Easy And Inexpensive To Get Started

  • Saturday, October 16, 2010
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  • Children's portrait photography is one of the most lucrative businesses out there. What's more, it is also one of the easiest to market to. The reason is simple. Just look around you-almost anywhere you go you see people with children-they're everywhere! And just about all of them want beautiful, professional portraits of their children. They know they're kids won't be kids forever, and that the snapshots they take themselves are not all they want to have to document their lives. They realize that by having a professional take portraits of their kids, they'll have an even better record of their child's appearance and personality. Yes, there always be those who will be alright with only having half-focused snapshots and still others who will settle for cheap, chain-store photography. But there are LOTS of people out there who recognize the difference in low-grade photography and professional photography-that it is artistic-and that even at higher prices, it is a much better value to them.

    It is easy to break into this market because of the emotional relationship parents have with their children. Appeal to those emotions, convince them that they NEED (not want) to have their child's portrait taken by the best photographer in the area (YOU), and that they get what they pay for when it comes to photography, and you'll have all the clients you need. While it might seem that there is a lot of competition in this area, there really is enough business to go around for you and all of your competitors. All you need to do is set yourself apart from the pack.

    "Traditionally-trained" photographers believe you must own a studio, belong to a professional photography association and follow all of its rules in order to be successful. This simply is not true. You can be extremely successful as a portrait photographer with just a few simple ideas: specialize in photographing children, photograph them in comfortable environment, and use natural light. Using this method, you will no longer require a studio, fancy lighting equipment, backdrop stand and backdrops. The children you photograph will be happy because they are not being forced to sit on a backdrop in front of scary-looking lights while you try to get a fake smile from them. The results of a natural portrait session are obvious-real smiles from happy children.

    Let's look at all the benefits of choosing this style of photographing children:
    o No rent: You automatically eliminate one of the biggest drains on your budget-overhead, which includes rent for a studio, utilities and interior decorating. This leaves you significantly more money for the most important part of your business-marketing.
    o Very little equipment maintenance: The only equipment you'll need to do this kind of photography is a camera (and a computer, if you are using digital), so that is all the equipment you'll need to maintain.
    o Work from home: You'll be able to work from the comfort of your own home, not answering to a boss anymore. Set your own schedule, doing sessions only when they are convenient for you. This leads directly to my next point-more time with your family.
    o More time with your family: The flexibility of working from home and setting your own schedule will allow you to be there for the important events in your family's life. You'll never have to miss another dance recital or soccer game-simply schedule sessions around them!
    o Save time and effort: A lot of time and energy goes in to setting up equipment, especially when you work on location. Natural portraiture eliminates this completely.
    o Fun: Without all of the constraints of "traditional" portrait photography, you'll enjoy your work! If you're like me, you'll actually end up looking forward to your sessions with great anticipation.
    o No thinking about equipment, just focus on session: You'll also enjoy being able to focus more on the artistic part of the session, since you won't be worried about whether or not your main light fired or if your subject is too close to the backdrop lights. Just relax and snap away.
    In my opinion, the easiest and least expensive photography business to start is one that specializes in natural-light photography of babies and children. Because you can get going with such a low budget makes it a perfect choice for those who want to work from home and make a living with photography.


    Angela Griffin is the founder of [http://www.photomarketingsuccess.com] and author of the course Marketing Magic for Children's Portrait Photography. Angela invites you to stop by [http://www.photomarketingsuccess.com] for free information on starting your own business, marketing it for success and lots of other resources for portrait photographers.

    Portrait Photography Tips - Shooting in Low Level Light

  • Tuesday, August 31, 2010
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  • It is comparatively easy to capture portraits when you have complete control of the lighting. But what about when you have no control and the available light is limited? The following portrait photography tips are intended to offer some lighting and photography concepts to make a low lighting situation a bit easier.

    Common situations dealing with low level lighting are conferences or weddings at the moments where something important is happening and a flash would be a rude distraction. In order to shoot portrait photography reasonably well in this situation you must know quite a bit about the characteristics of your camera.

    The Camera

    To take portraits in low lighting it is imperative that a single lens reflex (SLR) camera be used. SLRs allow complete control over the major characteristics of the camera: size of aperture opening, shutter speed, and the ISO setting of the image sensor (using a digital SLR).

    The Aperture

    The aperture is the iris like opening in the lens body that controls the amount of light that is let into the camera; the smaller the setting, the bigger the opening. Without a flash, the necessary setting of the aperture will depend on the amount of light in the room. There are lenses available that have very small aperture settings (large opening) but they can be very expensive.

    The point here is that if you have a limited light source, start with the lowest aperture setting and adjust higher as needed.

    Shutter Speed

    Allowing the shutter to stay open longer will allow more light in but it also allows for any motion to be captured; motion to a camera translates to blur or streaking. Because of this, a tripod or some other stabilizing device will be necessary. The longer the shutter is open, the more necessary the tripod (this is one of the key elements in all of my portrait photography tips). If you are expected to move about a crowd, a unipod may be a better choice.

    Try to keep your shutter speed slow enough to let enough light in but not so slow as to capture movement. This can take quite a bit of practice but can make the difference of having to buy an expensive large aperture lens or not.

    ISO Setting

    The ISO or film setting of your camera determines the sensitivity of your image sensor. The larger the ISO setting the quicker it reacts to light. Using a high setting in limited light will allow your sensor to react quicker to the light that is available. The balance here is that ISO settings above 400 tend to result in grainy pictures with some cameras; this is becoming less of a problem with the progressive development of image sensors but it still happens.

    Balancing out your aperture, shutter, and ISO settings in different lighting environments can take a bit of practice but it is better to do this than to use a disruptive flash during the I Dos of a wedding or when the boss may be making a presentation at a conference.

    I hope these portrait photography tips have shown some of the concepts to keep in mind when shooting portraits in limited lighting without a flash.


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